Remains - The dying pulse of history (Part-1)



All the Empires have their footprints on Lahore, and we are going in a search where we could find those footprints and their importance in their peak times and influence on people now. The last step would be to share all of them with mutually interested people. So let’s get going.

Day 1: Dai Anga Edition


Lahore with a rich history dating back over a thousand years, Lahore is a main cultural center of Punjab region. It has been the center point of empires. Lahore is one of the most populated cities of Punjab, as it remains an economic, political, transportation, entertainment, and educational hub. It has been the capital of Punjab in all-previous empires. It has been regional capital in the Mughal Empire; it served as capital city of Sikh Empire and as capital of Punjab in British Raj.

Dai-Anga masjid, Lahore
Dai-Anga masjid, Lahore

It was a cold morning of December 2014 when we left for first day to visit Dai Anga’s Mosque (Masjid) and her tomb. These both buildings are located near Beghumpura, which is 5km away from the railway station. Beghumpura once was the home of the grand nobility of Lahore; today is a far different from the grand palaces and mosques that once cherished its landscape.

We headed straight to Dai-Anga Masjid, which is near historical railway station Lahore. 

Dai Anga (Jahangir Region)


Zeb-un-Nisa also known as Dai Anga was a vet nurse of Shahab-ud-din Muhammad Khurram latter who became to be known as Emperor Shah Jahan [8 November 1627 – 2 August 1658]. She was well respected among the royal family. Her son Muhammad Rashid Khan was a best archer of that time. Rashid was killed in an action with Dara Shikoh (elder son of Shah Jahan).

DAI ANGA Masjid (Shah jahan REGION)


The first sight of the Masjid it looked a piece of art of Mugal Empire. Calligraphy and fresco gains ones attention abruptly. It was amazing to see how huge it is, exquisitely decorated in flowery paintwork. Now the paint on the walls is fading as it has borne all those harsh weather for nearly 380 years. This is the second oldest Mughal-era mosque in Lahore. The Mariam Zamani Mosque, inside the Walled City (which no longer has any walls left), is the oldest. The exterior of the Masjid is decorated with fine tile work similar to that seen at the Wazir Khan Masjid. The inscription in the mosque is said to date it to 1649 AD (1060 AH).

Front view of Dai-Anga masjid, Lahore
Front view of Dai-Anga masjid, Lahore
Closeup of front view of Dai-Anga masjid, Lahore
Closeup of front view of Dai-Anga masjid, Lahore
South-West view of Dai-Anga masjid, Lahore
Front view of Dai-Anga masjid, Lahore
Artistic art work on the walls of Dai-Anga Masjid, Lahore
Artistic art work on the walls of Dai-Anga Masjid, Lahore
Artistic art work on the walls of Dai-Anga Masjid, Lahore
Artistic art work on the walls of Dai-Anga Masjid, Lahore

Watching the quality of the work, and we understood these modern tiles and cement were no parallel to the true conversion. We wished the reformation were made with similar limestone material. There were no money, no intention, no patience like what we were thinking. The interior also displayed fine frescoes previously; unfortunately cheap modern ceramic tiles have largely replaced these over the last 3 years breaking a 360-year-old tradition.

Renovation of Masjid with ceramic tiles
Renovation of Masjid with ceramic tiles
Minaret of the masjid
Minaret of the Masjid
Red tile floor of Masjid
Red tile floor of Masjid
Deprecating art on the walls of Dai-Anga Masjid
Deprecating art on the walls of Dai-Anga Masjid
Art on the walls of Dai-Anga Masjid
Art on the walls of Dai-Anga Masjid
Beautiful art on the walls of Dai-Anga Masjid
Beautiful art on the walls of Dai-Anga Masjid
Front view of the Dai-Anga Masjid
Front view of the Dai-Anga Masjid

This Masjid is located near the railway station about a quarter a mile from the railway station. We spent some time in the Masjid, and relaxed and latter we left for Dai-Anga’s tomb, which was located nearby in Beghumpura. Once diverted from track, we found ourselves at a tomb of the saint, “Hazraat Eishan”  

Hazraat Eishan Tomb


Khwaja Mehmud (also known as Hazrat Eishan) was a Sufi religious leader from Bukhara who moved to Lahore during the reign of Shah Jahan. He was a in the same era with Hazrat Mian Mir and was also noted as a great scholar and physician. He died in November 1642. 

He came to Kashmir in Emperor Akbar’s reign and Jehangir, his successor, took him to Agra. During the rule of Shah Jahan, he shifted to Lahore. His mausoleum was established in his life. It is believed that the wife of Jahangir (Nur Jahan) was cured with the prayer of Hazrat Eshan. According to the information, the Sufi saint laid out a beautiful garden, but today, his tomb has a mosque and small graveyard nearby but no garden. It is said that his mausoleum was established in his lifetime.

Tomb of Hazraat Eishan died 1642
Tomb of Hazraat Eishan died 1642
Name plate at the door of tomb
Name plate at the door of tomb
Main door of the tomb
Main door of the tomb
Interior of the tomb
Interior of the tomb

This was indeed a place well seen which was not among our list for the day. We left the tomb nearly 2pm and reached Dai Anga’s tomb.  

HAZRAAT EISHAN TOMB


The unusual monument of cypress tomb is also located in the Beghumpura. We ended up unintentionally here and found this magnificent and unique piece of jewel of Mughal architecture. The tomb is sacred to the memory of a pious lady Sharf-un-Nisa; who was sister of Nawab Zakriya Khan who was governor of Lahore in the period of Emperor Muhammad Shah.  

History of the cypress tomb, Lahore
History of the cypress tomb, Lahore
Brick-built structure with Chhajja (shelf) near the top
Brick-built structure with Chhajja (shelf) near the top

The tower like tomb, brick-built structure with Chhajja (shelf) near the top, and that is then crowned with a small dome. The front wall is decorated with cypress, which enhances its consideration.  Its matchless design is unique, as there is none other of its kind throughout the sub-continent.  Two indifferent stories are associated with Cypress tomb one told by the locals while the other found in books.  

The tower like tomb, brick-built structure with Chhajja (shelf) near the top, and that is then crowned with a small dome. The front wall is decorated with cypress, which enhances its consideration.  Its matchless design is unique, as there is none other of its kind throughout the sub-continent.  Two indifferent stories are associated with Cypress tomb one told by the locals while the other found in books. 

Cypress tomb, Lahore
Cypress tomb, Lahore
Cypress tomb, Lahore
Cypress tomb, Lahore

The other unusual tale found in the books was, this place was build for Sharf-un-Nisa for her meditaion “Chilla” and devotion. She used to visit this place every day to read the holy Quran every day on the top story. She would leave a jeweled sword behind alongside the Quran when she climbed down. Upon her deathbed she expressed the wish to be buried in her Cypress Tower, with the Quran and the sword placed atop her grave. Her wish accepted and the entrance of the tower was blocked with bricks to protect it.  After the destruction of Begumpura, Sikh vandal who had heard of the legendary sword broke into the tower and stole the sword along with the Quran, thus destroying the sanctity of Sharf-un-Nisa away. The tomb was named after the tile decoration on its upper story.  

Wall closeup of Cypress tomb, Lahore
Wall closeup of Cypress tomb, Lahore

 Dai Anga tomb (Aurangzeb Alamgir Region)


We reached the tomb of Dai Anga, next to the University of Engineering and Technology inside the Gulabi baagh (garden). A Persian noble Mirza Sultan baig built Gulabi Bagh in 1655. He was the most senior commander of a navy under the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan.

We reached the tomb of Dai Anga, next to the University of Engineering and Technology inside the Gulabi baagh (garden). A Persian noble Mirza Sultan baig built Gulabi Bagh in 1655. He was the most senior commander of a navy under the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan.

Dai-Anga tomb, Bagimpura, Lahore
Dai-Anga tomb, Bagimpura, Lahore
View of Dai-Anga tomb, from the main gate
View of Dai-Anga tomb, from the main gate
Front view of the tomb, Dai-Anga, Lahore
Front view of the tomb, Dai-Anga, Lahore
Entrance gate of the tomb.
Entrance gate of the tomb.
Inside view of the tomb
Inside view of the tomb
Verses written on the walls, inside of tomb.
Verses written on the walls, inside of tomb.
Decorated wall inside of the tomb
Decorated wall inside of the tomb

We reached the tomb of Dai Anga, next to the University of Engineering and Technology inside the Gulabi baagh (garden). A Persian noble Mirza Sultan baig built Gulabi Bagh in 1655. He was the most senior commander of a navy under the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan.

This is dummy test. Add some more

One of the minaret of the tomb
One of the minaret of the Dai-Anga tomb
Main gate from the inside of Gulabi-Bagh
Main gate from the inside of Gulabi-Bagh
Some walls of the Gulabi-Bagh became part of the history
Some walls of the Gulabi-Bagh became part of the history 
Fine art work on main gate of Gulabi-Bagh
Fine art work on main gate of Gulabi-Bagh
Closeup of the fine art work on the main gate
Closeup of the fine art work on the main gate
Closeup of the fine art work on the main gate
Closeup of the fine art work on the main gate
History of Gulabi-Bagh and Dai-Anga tomb
History of Gulabi-Bagh and Dai-Anga tomb 

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